Lay the transparency centered
onto the mesh and then use a brass rule and bone folder to fold over the edges as you did
in the previous steps.
Use the Japanese screw punch
loaded with the 3mm tip to punch a hole through all the layers of mesh
and transparency at each corner. Note, this will dull your punch tips
more quickly, so we sell them
Feed a copper eyelet through
any hole, from the front to the back, and turn the whole thing upside down
onto the bench block.
Put the nubby of the eyelet
tool into the tube of the eyelet.
Hit the end of the eyelet tool
with the hammer until the eyelet has flared out and is lying flat against
the mesh. The slower you do this (the lighter your blows) the less chance
you'll have of splitting the eyelet.
Once the eyelet is set and
stable, turn it over onto your bench block.
Hit the back of the eyelet
directly with the rawhide mallet. Note, if your bench block is rough it
will damage the front of the eyelet. You may consider that a design
element. You can protect your work by putting a piece of Masonite or
cardstock on top of the block.
Repeat with the remaining
It's fun to put something like
copper mesh underneath each eyelet (on top of a bench block) as you
flare it out. The mesh (or other material) will leave it's texture on
the top of the eyelet.